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2012~2022,双11美妆品牌浮沉录

今年双十一的战火仍在持续。

榜单中的水下冰山

今年双十一的战火仍在持续。

根据天猫大美妆的数据,在天猫双十一的「开门红」阶段(10月31日至11月3日),天猫快消超90个品牌成交破亿,670个单品成交破千万 。其中,「天猫美妆行业开门红全周期品牌成绩单」显示,欧莱雅、雅诗兰黛和兰蔻稳居前三宝座,而国产品牌中跻身前十的仅有珀莱雅和薇诺娜

如果以御泥坊、阿芙等为代表的淘品牌崛起作为美妆双十一的起点,这个行业年终大考的传统已经走过了十年。

春雷社根据公开资料整理

而当我们细数十年来的美妆双十一榜单时,犹如被时代埋下的草蛇灰线,随着渠道变革的历史、市场语境的变迁以及营销战场的更迭,许多曾经熟悉的面孔已经隐没于烟尘。

与此同时,虽然品牌浮沉,但OLAY、欧莱雅始终不曾跌出历年的榜单前十,出色的市场嗅觉和反应力,使其在多轮潮水的冲击下,仍旧保持坚挺。

十年一觉:淘品牌的兴衰

时间回到2009年。

该年9月,由「雕爷」孟醒创办的阿芙精油正式入驻淘宝,开设品牌旗舰店;而此时送出了20万份小样的膜法世家已经初具声量;刷新过中国化妆品电商行业单店单月、单店单天销售纪录的御泥坊也蓄势待发。

这是美妆行业中最早的一批「淘品牌」。

在百雀羚、自然堂等传统美妆品牌仍然沉迷线下KA、CS渠道的年代,借助平台在流量倾斜、品牌推广、低价折扣等方面的扶持,淘品牌们已经步入野蛮生长的阶段。

初代的线上打法也开始显露雏形。例如膜法世家凭借前期免费赠送试用积攒口碑,后期69包邮和官方支持,销量轻松破万,并且做到面膜类目流量第一;而御泥坊不仅尝试了网络代理店铺的模式,也通过淘宝推出的直通车、钻展、坑位等投流手段、加上试用、秒杀、买赠、团购等营销手段,也迅速完成了线上市场的缜密布局。

此外,像御泥坊用宫廷传说来丰富其产品故事、阿芙和膜法世家以细分赛道和单一品类切入抢占市场心智,都是经典的出圈案例。

2012-2015年间,是属于淘品牌的黄金时代。御泥坊、膜法世家在双十一的榜单上始终位居前十。但好景不长,随着淘品牌相继触及流量天花板,虽迟但到的传统品牌以后发制人的姿态瓜分了巨额的市场版图。

在新零售的风潮下,淘品牌并非没有求变。与一众线下转线上的传统美妆品牌相反,御泥坊、阿芙、膜法世家等都营销升级、线下布局、扩充品类等方面做了诸多努力。

例如2014年下半年开始,膜法世家与湖南卫视、旅游卫视等签订了年度战略合同,并投入到线下的活动营销,引进电视剧、电影、电影节等合作资源;御泥坊除了大篇幅的网络视频广告、楼宇广告,也选择在热播电视剧、综艺节目中广泛植入广告。

2015年9月,御泥坊进驻湖北金梦妆以及屈臣氏南部地区,涵盖了650家屈臣氏门店;2016年时,膜法世家已经拥有了高达6000多家CS代理商网点和300家单品牌店。

此外,御泥坊也通过品牌矩阵的搭建,以及国外品牌的线上代运营服务,不断延展自身的商业触角。

阿芙则以围绕精油推出了多种新产品和套装,截至2022年8月,品牌的面部护理套装占比提升到37.43%;随着「以油养肤」的兴起,阿芙也将战场延申至唇部、手部、身体、头发护理等领域;2019年下半年,阿芙的SKU结构已经完成了全品类的渗透。

但面对百雀羚、韩束等一个个经典营销案例的冲击,缺乏深厚市场底蕴的淘品牌还是后劲不足。

2016年,阿里一度成立「协助商家上市办公室」,意在支持淘品牌们加速登陆资本市场,然而除了戴跃锋和他的御家汇(后改名为水羊股份)幸运上市之外,几乎再无第二个成功案例。

与之对应的的,是从2016起,在历届「双十一」的各条品类赛道排行榜上逐渐难觅淘品牌的身影。

一个时代过去了,但类似的故事仍在上演。

水下冰山:美妆新时代

如今再回顾2015-2016年间的市场数据报告时,我们会发现许多有趣的细节。

例如《 2016中国美妆消费趋势报告》指出,截至2015年底,已有29个欧美品牌、37个日韩品牌入驻天猫,包括雅诗兰黛、兰蔻、海蓝之谜、SK-II、Whoo后雪花秀等;仅海蓝之谜、雪花秀、SKII等20余个品牌商,就有超过160款专为天猫消费者定制款产品推出,有超过100款美妆新品选通过天猫在全球首发。

该报告还显示,2014年以来,消费者对日韩护肤产品的偏好度一路上升,以爱茉莉太平洋、资生堂等集团为代表的日韩高端化妆品,已成为天猫美妆成长速度最快,同时最受中国年轻消费者热爱的化妆品类,天猫美妆也表示,2016年仍将继续重点引进更多日韩品牌。

回顾2015年的前十榜单,国际品牌尚只有欧莱雅和OLAY两席;而在2016年之后,则是国产品牌的日渐式微。

这套价格战、营销战、下沉市场铺设的底层逻辑并不难掌握,无论是背靠强大品牌力的欧美系美妆品牌,还是时尚滤镜拉满的日韩系美妆品牌,在熟悉了流量玩法后,都对中国市场展开了疯狂的围剿。

与此同时,新的变革也在发生。2016年,曾任戴跃峰助手的黄锦峰从御泥坊出走,创立和逸仙电商,现象级品牌完美日记也在数年后被成功孵化。

所谓前人栽树,后人乘凉。

以HFP、完美日记、花西子等为代表的DTC新锐品牌,正如当年淘品牌的集中式爆发一样,也是以营销为壁垒,通过收割流量打造爆款。不同的是,正如当年双十一对于电商的重构,如今吃着新兴社交媒体和直播红利的新锐品牌们,也在某种意义上消解着双十一的价值。

阿芙创始人「雕爷」说:「李佳琦杀死了双十一」——随着直播电商对价格的进一步击穿,私域的兴起和流量的多元化,抖、快等平台迅猛崛起,天猫的影响力出现了下滑。

但依旧是上述的逻辑,当「5000篇小红书+2000篇知乎问答+超头部主播带货」的公式可以被复制之后,品牌的营销壁垒也荡然无存。

2017年后,除了HFP和完美日记两匹黑马,双十一前十榜单上再无新锐的踪迹。

2020年分别被欧莱雅、雅诗兰黛、LG、宝洁、资生堂、爱茉莉太平洋等国际美妆集团瓜分,国产品牌仅剩薇诺娜;2021年的变化不大,雪花秀被赫莲娜所替代;2022年,根据天猫大美妆发布的双十一「开门红」数据,国货也只有珀莱雅和薇诺娜上榜前十。

总结十年来的双十一美妆前十榜单,行业趋势犹如水下冰山,藏匿在每个品牌名字的背后:

1、流量的得与失

「淘品牌」的兴衰沉浮如同一面镜子,映照出那些在初代电商浪潮中拔地而起的草根品牌,在突破边界向上生长之后所不得不接受相应的收获和代价。

像OLAY和欧莱雅这种拥有深厚品牌积淀,市场反应同样敏锐的豪门,虽然会被黑马短暂冲击,但却始终屹立不倒。

多年后借助社交媒体红利一跃而起的新锐品牌们,一定程度上走着淘品牌们走过的路径,同样不可避免地遭遇流量陷阱和大牌降维打击。

至少在下一个流量渠道出现之前,不可能再有现象级品牌的横空出世。

2、从单一品类、基础功效到进阶功效的产品升级

2018年以来,作为深耕敏感肌赛道的功效品牌,薇诺娜在美妆双十一榜单上的表现始终坚挺,也迎合着「功效」的风潮变化;此外,大牌平替也不再是新锐品牌的唯一选择,在消费升级的背景下,基于功效机理、用户场景的故事更能体现产品力。

3、品牌力的升级成为美妆行业的自我革命

曾以「海洋补水」为主打的珀莱雅,借助「大单品」战略和「早C晚A」重回市场视野,构建起全新的品牌形象;一叶子也在2021年对品牌进行全面升级,以植物科技、自然极简、环保减塑全新品牌调性持续加码年轻市场,打出「倡导中国纯净美容植物护肤领先品牌」的定位;老牌国货韩束则进阶为「科学抗衰」,抢占「温和抗初老」赛道。



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