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阿迪达斯丢了“椰子”

因为反犹太言论和行为,美国说唱歌手、时装设计师Kanye West(下称侃爷)正在被欧美时尚圈抛弃。

曾被炒到几万一双,被誉为最成功的联名款

除了拳头产品遭遇风波,2021年以来阿迪达斯在大中华区的业绩也在节节败退。这家全球第二大运动品牌,正遭遇又一次危机。

因为反犹太言论和行为,美国说唱歌手、时装设计师Kanye West(下称侃爷)正在被欧美时尚圈抛弃。继GAP、巴黎世家后,10月25日,阿迪达斯也宣布和侃爷终止合作。

在官方声明中,阿迪达斯同时宣布将停止生产Yeezy品牌的产品,停止阿迪达斯Yeezy业务。这一决定,预计将会让公司2022年净收入减少2.5亿欧元。

2015年,阿迪达斯和侃爷的个人潮流品牌Yeezy推出了联名款yeezy boost系列,也就是我国消费者常说的“椰子鞋”。一经上市,售价数千元的“椰子鞋”便受到热捧,经常缺货。前几年炒鞋流行的时候,这个系列的鞋子甚至能卖到几万一双,被誉为最成功的联名款。

2021年以来阿迪达斯在大中华区的业绩开始节节败退,此次拳头产品风波,让这家全球第二大运动品牌,又一次遭遇危机。不过,对于大部分消费者来说,可能更关心,以后还能在阿迪达斯买到椰子鞋吗?

“椰子鞋”会消失吗?

作为“椰子鞋”多年老粉,王萌看到阿迪达斯宣布停产Yeezy产品时,第一反应是自己刚买的鞋会不会成为绝版,以后能不能升值。她有这样的想法,是因为椰子鞋经常“一鞋难求”。

从电商平台的累计销量看,阿迪达斯在我国市场上最受欢迎的鞋就是三叶草贝壳鞋和椰子鞋两大系列。其中,“椰子鞋”几乎算是阿迪达斯近些年唯一一款爆款鞋。有咨询公司预测,其年销售额约为15亿欧元,占阿迪达斯总营收的7%左右。

(得物APP截图)

虽然不跟侃爷合作了,但阿迪达斯真的会就此舍弃这一“拳头系列”吗?

从公司的声明看,倒也未必。因为阿迪达斯表示,双方合作期间的产品设计、配色等版权完全归自己所有。这就意味着,只要阿迪达斯愿意,公司完全可以将之前的“椰子鞋”换个品牌继续生产销售。

鞋圈“老炮”胡斌也认为,阿迪达斯绝不会让“椰子鞋”绝版。“当初科比离开阿迪达斯,和耐克合作的时候,这样的事情就上演过。”

1996年,还是新秀的科比被阿迪达斯相中,之后阿迪达斯为科比推出了8款新鞋。2003年,科比转和耐克合作,之后阿迪达斯依旧多次“翻新”此前和科比合作的鞋。“唯一的区别就是不能再用当初的logo了”,胡斌解释道。

比起“椰子鞋”的前途未卜,当下最令阿迪达斯“头疼”的大概率还是公司的业绩压力。

曾经,阿迪达斯是全球运动品牌中当之无愧的领导者。1949年,阿道夫·阿迪·达斯勒由于和哥哥产生了矛盾,于是将家里的制鞋厂一分为二,在此基础上,哥哥成立了“彪马”,阿道夫·阿迪·达斯勒则成立了“阿迪达斯”。

很长时间内,阿迪达斯都“统治”着田径和足球两项运动。耐克创始人奈特在其自传中也多次回忆,上世纪六七十年代,自己刚创业时如何被阿迪“碾压”。

数十年来,耐克和阿迪“你方唱罢我登场”一直是全球运动服装的前两名。但近些年,阿迪大有被耐克越落越远的迹象。

2017财年到2021财年,耐克的营收从364亿美元增长至467亿美元,年均复合增长率为6.4%;同时期内阿迪达斯的营收则几乎停滞不前,从212.2亿欧元微微增长至212.3亿欧元。

分地区来看,阿迪达斯在中国市场的表现更差。大中华区曾是阿迪达斯业绩增长的重要支撑,2019年公司还在年报中提到,其大中华区业绩已连续五年快速增长。但2021年开始,阿迪达斯在中国的业绩逐渐下滑,就连市场占有率第二的“宝座”,也被国产品牌安踏取而代之。

今年8月,阿迪达斯CEO罗思德宣布将于2023年辞职,而他和阿迪的合同原本到2026年才会到期。罗思德提前三年辞任,也被认为和中国市场的业绩下滑有关。

连续6季度业绩下滑

罗思德自2016年开始担任阿迪达斯的CEO,在他任期内,阿迪大中华区业绩曾十分亮眼。2016年到2019年,大中华区营收从30亿欧元增长到52.8亿欧元,几乎翻倍。

不过,2019年的52.8亿欧元也成阿迪达斯至今在中国市场的“最高纪录”,之后其大中华区的业绩增速就开始下滑。2021年,阿迪达斯大中华区营收46亿欧元,与2018年相当。

2021年开始,阿迪在中国市场的日子就更难过了。从2021财年第二季度开始到今年第三季度,阿迪大中华区的业绩已经连续6个季度下滑。本月刚公布的第三季度业绩预告中,阿迪达斯提到,其大中华区业绩双位数下滑。

阿迪业绩下滑的同时,我国国产运动服装品牌的业绩却在上升。2019年到2021年,李宁营收从138.7亿元增长到了225.7亿元;安踏则从339.3亿元增长到了493.3亿元。

这就证明,我国运动服装行业还处在发展中,阿迪达斯的业绩颓势除了大环境影响外,更多还是公司自身的原因。2022年8月份,罗思德在接受媒体采访时也曾表示,阿迪达斯在中国市场犯了错误。

除了2021年因为不当言论伤害了中国消费者的感情,阿迪达斯的“错误”还表现在产品、渠道等多个方面。

先从产品看,耐克和阿迪这两大巨头都是以鞋类产品为主,而我国的李宁、安踏等则是以服装为主。近年来,阿迪达斯除了“椰子鞋”外,再无爆款。

运动服装,尤其是运动鞋和其他服装有一个很大的区别,那就是不少消费者在选择的过程中会很在意“技术含量”。曾经,阿迪达斯凭借“Boost技术”大火,但近年来其技术迭代比较慢。公司刚推出不久的4D跑鞋,还没在消费者中火“出圈”。

服装方面,我国国产运动品牌近年来借着“国潮”崛起,推出了不少有中国元素的服装产品,受到消费者青睐。相比之下,阿迪达斯的服装更偏基础款,表现也更加平淡。

产品力的下降可以从公司的研发支出方面找到蛛丝马迹。2021财年,阿迪达斯研发费用为1.3亿欧元,占营收的0.6%左右。相比之下,我国国产运动品牌对研发更加重视,以安踏为例,2021年其研发费用占营收的比例约2.3%。

除产品外,阿迪达斯的渠道也相对“老化”。2021年,批发渠道占阿迪达斯营收的62%,而DTC(直接面对消费者,包括电商和直营渠道)渠道则只占其营收的38%,其中电商只占19%。

我们还是以安踏作为对比,2021年电商占安踏集团的营收为26%,比阿迪达斯高出了7个百分点。

批发渠道为主的话,企业相对不容易了解终端销售情况,也更难洞察、跟上消费者的变化。2020年开始,安踏主品牌也在进行“DTC”渠道改革,增加线下直营店和线上渠道比利。对于阿迪来说,DTC渠道建设同样至关重要。

对于服装企业而言,产品、渠道不给力造成的最终结果就是库存积压。2020年和2021年,阿迪达斯库存占营收的比重为24.2%和18.9%,分别比安踏高了8.8和3.4个百分点。

为了解决库存,企业一般会选择打折出售,而打折多了又会影响价格定位和品牌形象。

进入中国市场以来,阿迪达斯吃到了我国运动服装行业从无到有崛起的红利。然而,现在时代大不一样了,一方面行业增速见顶,另一方面随着我国品牌的崛起,市场竞争也变得更加激烈。

对于阿迪达斯来说,想要找回以前的辉煌,实在是难。



知道了