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lululemon的增长神话,还在继续

中国市场几乎成为国际市场的增长引擎

lululemon的增长神话还将继续,但那些有志于投身运动生活方式的运动品牌,正在共同参与这场神话的建造。

即便对中产消费的悲观论调不绝于耳,但lululemon最近财报中国区79%的增长,依然羡煞旁人。‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍

这个被认为是中产消费代表的国际运动品牌,在截至4月30日的一季度报告显示,净营收同比增长24%至20亿美元,北美业务净营收增长17%,包括中国在内的国际业务净营收增长60%。‍

其中,中国市场几乎成为国际市场的增长引擎。根据lululemon早先透露,截止今年4月,其在中国大陆市场门店已超过100家,而在2022年新开的81家直营店中,中国新增31家,占全球新开店总数的38%。lululemon在中国市场依然拥有不断壮大的狂热粉丝规模。‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍

但国际运动品牌在中国,并不都是一路高歌。在早些时候公布的财报上,耐克大中华区营收同比增长1%至19.9亿美元,而阿迪达斯大中华区上季度收入同比下跌12%,已连续八个财季下滑。

虽然耐克、阿迪达斯在大中华区的业务体量,仍远大于lululemon,但这个定价更高、刚刚迈过25周年的加拿大运动品牌,正持续在全球运动品牌中扮演着黑马的角色。‍‍‍‍‍

运动生活方式风潮

为什么lululemon的增长神话还在继续?这几乎成为全球大消费品牌增长研究的共同课题。

瑜伽、社群和中产女性,用户对lululemon的影响力传播方式,几乎耳熟能详,而如果给这种影响力传播冠以标签,便是「运动生活方式传播」。‍‍‍‍‍‍‍

也就是说,如果lululemon超越阿迪达斯、追赶耐克,是全球运动品牌的里程碑式变革,而背后的真正变革是,专业运动正在让位于运动生活方式,引领着全球主要市场的服饰变革。‍‍‍

按照lululemon CEO Calvin McDonald在财报电话会上的说法,「以社区为主导的增长模型,正继续成为我们最大的竞争优势之一」。

lululemon

公司CEO McDonald的表态说出了核心。以社区为主导的增长模型,意味着高度去中心化的增长策略,lululemon全球近700家线下直营店成为品牌传播的主要场景,门店的大使成为分散化的传播者,门店教育家成为传播的执行者,而门店的社群活动,即是品牌传播的最大仪式感。

这几乎和历史分别超过50和70年的耐克阿迪大相径庭。后者基于专业赛事、专业运动员和专业运动场景的传播,高效地传播着品牌精神。‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍

两者的不同对于用户而言的区别是,用户从关注聚光灯下的精英运动员运动竞技,到开始关注自我运动和生活。‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍

因此,与其说是lululemon的增长神话,不如说「运动生活方式」在全球范围内的风靡神话。‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍

巴厘岛瑜伽节上的全球运动瑜伽爱好者

也因此,地位不可撼动的运动品牌领头者耐克,开始在品牌专业运动之外,加大运动生活方式的探索。‍‍‍‍‍‍‍

仅在中国市场,耐克开始加大发力女性市场,推出Nike有感体验社区,在今年2月,耐克发布了Nike Zenvy放空系列与Nike Go怒放系列紧身裤,发力年轻女性运动服饰。并强调亚洲版型设计,针对亚洲女性身材特点打造。

在高度聚焦的精英运动员和赛场之外,耐克开始通过分散化的社群和用户建立体验连接,让开始运动的更多普通用户讲述耐克故事使专业运动的耐克精神,开始注入更多运动生活方式的元素。‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍

Nike

而对于德国运动品牌阿迪达斯而言,在被lululemon市值反超之后,开始签约新西兰团操健身品牌莱美,推出Sports Wear系列,都是这个迈过70年的国际运动品牌,在运动生活上的持续加码。‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍

可以列举的品牌并不少,不论瑞士新生代品牌On昂跑、还是英国健身品牌Gymshark,甚至北美更年期的瑜伽品牌alo yoga,都在运动生活方式的小赛道上讲出了不小的故事。‍‍‍‍‍

如果说以耐克、阿迪达斯为代表的上一代运动品牌,以竞技体育精神为核心,那么新一代以lululemon为代表的运动品牌,则以运动生活为核心。前者弘扬的品牌主张是竞技精神的「更高更快更强」,后者更强调的是自由和自我。

On昂跑

换言之,以lululemon所代表的「自由运动生活」价值主张的品牌增长神话继续,取决于运动生活本身的扩大增长。‍‍‍‍‍‍‍

毫无疑问,全球范围内的人主要市场都在更多地参与运动,疫情甚至不可逆地加速了这种趋势。‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍

首先从运动渗透率的提升而言,全球都在快速迈进。以美国市场而言,疫情前后的环境变化,分别带动了Peloton、mirror家庭健身用户的快速扩张,planet fitness的逆势增长至2400家,以及全美小众户外运动生活的快速流行。‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍

这种运动生活的变迁,几乎和中国市场一致。疫情中带动的刘畊宏式的家庭健身增长,疫情后带动的以飞盘、匹克球为代表的小众运动潮流,以及更远范围内容的徒步、特种兵旅行风潮。‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍

用户的运动正在更广泛的场景下流动,家庭场景、健身房场景、户外场景及旅游场景。场景的变化,不变的是运动生活下的自我表达。‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍

Peloton

而运动几乎成为生活方式变迁中,最主要的变化方向。以美国而言,根据相关数据,运动服饰已经占到总体服饰产业中三至四成的规模,而在中国刚过10%的占比而言,运动生活服饰的渗透,依然才刚刚开始。‍

根据精练GymSquare《2022中国健身行业报告》,中国线下健身渗透率为1.7%,全国健身房活跃用户总量为2420.2万。当然,用户正在参与广义的线下健身,包括户外健身,旅游场景的运动等。

因此,在中国市场而言,服装总体市场正在小幅负增长,但包括安踏、李宁在内的国内运动服饰依然在稳定增长,还有MAIA ACTIVE,NEIWAI ACTIVE, OUTOPIA、MOLY VIVI等新品牌的涌现,运动服饰正在取代更多传统的休闲服饰,成为大众穿着的主要选择。‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍‍

如果说运动生活方式,是运动品牌未来的最大增长方向,那么lululemon CEO McDonald在财报电话会上「以社区为主导的增长模型」,几乎将成为新一代运动品牌的标准配置。

用更分散的社群传播,逐渐减少高举高代的体育IP传播。运动社群、运动大使、和门店场景再造,将成为运动生活方式品牌的增长齿轮。‍‍‍‍‍

lululemon的增长神话还将继续,但那些有志于投身运动生活方式的运动品牌,正在共同参与这场神话的建造。当中有运动品牌领导者耐克、阿迪达斯,前赴后继变幻繁多的Z世代新兴运动品牌,不变的是,运动生活方式之风,永不止。